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Wednesday, Jul. 22, 2009
Burger Showdown: Twisted Root falls; Kincaid's survives
Twisted Root falls in the Sweet 16; Kincaid's, Pappas, Five Guys triumph.
DFW.com
The Philosophy of Burgers. We’re thinking it should be taught at Harvard. Or at least UTA.
Because while you can learn a lot from reading Descartes and Kant, at DFW.com we believe you can learn just as much from eating hamburgers.
Consider Week Three of the Battle of the Burgers, which seemed to serve up one tricky moral dilemma after another — along with those cheeseburgers and fries. At Twisted Root in Dallas, we saw a madly ambitious, cutting-edge burger restaurant briefly stumble, serving up a dried-out, overcooked patty during a crowded lunchtime rush. Its direct competitor, Scotty P’s, maintained focus but seemed to lack a sense of originality and verve. Which would you reward: Ambition unrealized or modesty surpassed? (In our case, we declared a tie and went back for a second taste.)
Over in the Mid-Cities, the dilemma was of a different sort: Can you really compare two burgers of such wildly differing, equally marvelous styles as Five Guys and OC? Are we comparing burgers and burgers or apples and oranges — and, if it’s the latter, what is the true meaning of the word "comparison"?
We’ve enjoyed endless hours discussing these sometimes pretentious questions, much to the puzzlement of our colleagues, who’d scoff, "C’mon, it’s just a hamburger." But if the Battle of the Burgers has taught us anything so far, it’s that there is no such thing as just a burger. We’ve whittled our list of the 32 top burgers in the Metroplex down to a Sweet Sixteen of achievement and complexity; 16 burgers that demand the full attention of both our stomach and our intellect.
We realize there are no right or wrong answers. With burgers, as in life, there are merely endless variations on the same fundamental notion: What does it truly mean to be satisfied? With that in mind, we give you this week’s Burger Madness:
1. Kincaid’s vs. 4. Love Shack
■Winner: Kincaid’s
Kincaid’s burgers sing, with their alluring, mouth-watering, well-but-not-overdone patties and perfectly balanced symphony of toppings. They win on the "wow" factor. On our return visit, we ordered our burger with bacon, a make-or-break, tough-to-perfect topping. Kincaid’s hit a bull’s-eye with thick, high-quality, perfectly cooked strips. The bacon didn’t stay snuggly in the sandwich, but that’s not the end of the world, since it makes for a great nibbler. Love Shack, on a good day, can defeat Kincaid’s in a few categories: It doesn’t fall apart as much, it’s hotter (temperature-wise) and the tenderloin-brisket marriage is distinct. But compared to Kincaid’s, it’s a little on the wimpy side, and the gristly side. We love Love Shack, but the edges of the Best Burger in DFW shouldn’t need a wipe-down before the first bite. (As a side note, we are not judging on ambiance, but Love Shack being an outdoor-seating venue is rough in the summertime. We hope their upcoming location on Seventh Street will provide some relief from the heat.)
1. Pappas vs. 5. Red Robin
■Winner: Pappas
Everything about Red Robin reeks of chain restaurant. From the oversized menus to the loud decor. We could only hope that the burger isn’t as generic as the surroundings. And it definitely is not. The Red Robin Gourmet Cheeseburger is chargrilled perfectly on the outside but a bit dry on the inside. Still, this didn’t detract from the overall taste. The standard veggies (extra points for red onion) were enhanced by Red’s pickle relish which is spiked with ketchup and adds a different flavor dimension. Overall, a valiant effort, but Red Robin could not overcome the burgering bliss of Pappas’ Cheeseburger. Here, the meat is the true centerpiece, and for a reason. The patty, prime beef according to our server, is exceptionally juicy and flavorful. There is little seasoning, which makes sense since that would overshadow the pure quality of the meat. The perfectly melted cheese and modest layer of toppings did their part as supporting players. Pappas is a burger that builds momentum with each greasy bite. It keeps getting better and better until the last morsel is devoured.
1. Twisted Root vs. 4. Scotty P’s
■Winner: Scotty P’s
Twisted Root performed ably in the first round, easily triumphing over Goff’s. But it seemed to stumble in the second round, serving up dried-out, well-done burgers when we expressly asked for medium. Was our top seed simply having an off day? A repeat visit proved just as disappointing: The meat was a tad juicier, though not by much; the bun was a bore ("straight out of Jack-in-the-Box," noted a tablemate); the flavors just didn’t pop. (We ordered a guacamole and green chile burger, and a blue cheese and fresh jalapeño burger.) Scotty P’s, meanwhile, might not deliver a masterpiece, but after two trips, we’ve decided it’s our kind of underdog: The buns are wonderfully buttery, with just a hint of crunch. The flavor combinations are simple, but intriguing (we recommend the Caesar burger, which comes topped with a mini-Caesar salad, creating a nice interplay of textures and temperatures). Perhaps most important: It left us eager for yet another return visit.
1. Five Guys vs. 4. OC Burgers
■Winner: Five Guys
Think Federer versus Nadal, Wimbledon 2008 (or perhaps Federer versus Roddick, Wimbledon 2009): A truly epic matchup, a glorious study of contrasting styles, featuring two grand opponents at the very top of their game. It positively breaks your heart to have to declare a winner. The blue-cheese burger at OC Burgers was a feat of the salty and the savory, with crumbles of not-too-melted cheese wedged in between a pair of thin, quarter-pound patties. The only (modest) complaint was the beef was a bit on the dry side. Alas, there is no room for even the slightest slip-up when you’re up against Five Guys. The Arlington, Va.-based chain once again delivered a perfectly seasoned, unimaginably juicy cheeseburger, which we opted to top with fried onions, green peppers and A1 sauce. Every bite at Five Guys leaves you wanting another; we’ll be shocked if it doesn’t make the Final Four.
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