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Wednesday, Mar. 11, 2009

Fat Daddy's raises the sports bar in Mansfield

The cuisine: Humongous burgers, chicken-fried things, steaks

The concept: A sports bar on steroids, Fat Daddy’s is a cavernous eatery, bar and recreation spot. You know this place has upped the ante on the sports bar concept the moment you walk in the front door and find yourself looking at what seems to be an escapee from an auto show. The 1970 Barracuda on a turntable is part of a rotating collection of sporty cars, and you’ll just have to return every few weeks if you want to see them all. Another Fat Daddy’s is slated to open in downtown Fort Worth in May.

The food: When we spied the olive martini on the appetizer menu and noticed the words "flash-fried" we thought immediately of the fried green olives we love at our favorite tapas restaurant. Despite a clever presentation in a martini-shaped bowl, the appetizer turned out to be disappointingly close to the standard fried mozzarella appetizer (95 percent cheese with bits of chopped black olives mixed in), and the "sweet and spicy sauce" described on the menu turned out to be ordinary marinara sauce. It was an insipid appetizer. Fortunately, the meal improved. The buttermilk-batter chicken-fried steak ($10.99) is the thickest cut of chicken-fried steak we’ve ever run across. The side of onion rings we ordered would actually be onion strings, the waitress warned us. "Great," we said. And they were. The Cheddar-jalapeno mashed potatoes had more jalapeno flavor than Cheddar. We couldn’t resist ordering the Fat Daddy’s Texas Burger ($10.99), a pound of beef topped with bacon, Cheddar, Swiss, onion straws and chipotle mayo. It was a terrific burger, though we didn’t make it even halfway through. (There’s a smaller version for $8.49). A side of coleslaw was a happy surprise. The slightly pink color and the unusual spicy flavor come from a mix of cayenne and cumin, the waitress told us.

The atmosphere: While the food is certainly serviceable, and occasionally better than that, it’s the party atmosphere that makes Fat Daddy’s, which opened on Super Bowl Sunday, the draw it already is with Mansfield and south Arlington folks. The owners clearly sank some coin into this place, which has high ceilings and intriguing items suspended from it, like a dragster. Yes, that’s a race car hanging over your head. There’s karaoke Wednesday nights, live bands Fridays and Saturdays, and pool and shuffleboard every night. And, of course, there’s the game on a gajillion TV screens. Fat Daddy’s has 20,000 square feet, and Friday and Saturday nights, it’s packed.

The details: A grand opening is planned May 16. Fat Daddy’s is open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to midnight Monday and Tuesday and 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Wednesday-Saturday. There’s a bar area with food service and a separate dining room, for those seeking a quieter experience. Full bar service. Wheelchair accessible. Smoking on patio only. Major credit cards accepted.

— Cathy Frisinger


Fat Daddy’s Sports & Spirits Cafe
781 W. Debbie Lane

Mansfield

817-453-0188

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